Published on Jul, 2023
We really enjoyed this day, an extra special memory beyond beach days. I arranged an itinerary beforehand on email and it was full but not exhaustingly so. We had driven ten years ago around Istria in a hire car for a day and very much enjoyed it but I was rather more nervous about doing it this time (you lose nerve as you get older) so took the easy option. There are now parking charges for Groznjan and Motovun and a charge for the Motovun walls which certainly wasn't the case then!
Sini picked us up from our apartment in Rovinj at 9 dead on time, and we drove first to Groznjan which we have very fond memories of, and it is still a lovely charming artistic place. Met an artist at work in his studio as well. Some amazing facts and figures on his paintings. Had time to wander before on the road again to a place I was interested in seeing, Zavrsje, which is almost completely abandoned, and a contrast to the other towns. All through the day we enjoyed a near constant stream of conversation on Croatia and Istria plus life generally, Sini has a very dry British type wit and is great company.
Zavrsje is well worth a stop. Tiny, one small street through. Abandoned houses all overgrown. Eerie. Very atmospheric and haunting. Then on to Oprtalj which we didn't have time for before on our drive in 2013 to Groznjan, Motovun and Hum. It was smaller than I was expecting! But very sweet and an impressive loggia for the size of the town (meeting place/council building). All through the day by the way there was plenty of time to admire the surrounding countryside which is just amazing. Completely unspoilt, nothing but trees, hills, agriculture, and large skies, hope it stays that way. Nothing at all to spoil views on 3d vistas. Just stunning.
We had a sandwich stop in Oprtalj before getting to the Livade forest out of Motovun for our agreed truffle hunting demo with Nikola (think it is right) which was hilarious as well as informative..loved his two dogs as well. If you do this, take insect repellant, we forgot but thankfully Nikola had some! Sini left us to that for 40 minutes before taking us to Motovun, walls included. Had a walk around, yes the views are worth it from those walls and visit tasting olive oil and truffles at a shop. Then a lovely drink at a cafe where we could see the views, and home by way of photo stops at the Limski Canal. Sini is really accommodating in agreeing an itinerary, so get familiar with various towns in a Rough Guide or online before as it is well worth doing detours and less famous places, I will always remember Zavrsje. It was a wonderful day.
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